How Francis Mallmann feeds the rich and famous with food from the fire – Telegraph.co.uk

Posted: July 30, 2017 at 3:46 pm

If Mallmanns food is simple, little else in his life has been. At 13, he left home, later travelling to the US to commune with West Coast hippies. After living off carpentry, termite extermination and seaweed husbandry, he returned to Argentina to open a restaurant. In 1980, he wrote to every three-Michelin-star chef in France begging for stages. After three years of being screamed at in French, he emerged a true believer in haute cuisine. I became an elegant chef, he says, wincing.

At a dinner in Buenos Aires for Cartier, the head of the company approached and said, Ive just had one of the most disgusting meals of my life. The menu is written in French, but really your food is not French at all. Stung, Mallmann began to explore the food of Argentina, and then ditched French cooking altogether. Trading toque for beret and fine dining for the rusticity of Argentine staples, he lit a bonfire under those culinary vanities.

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How Francis Mallmann feeds the rich and famous with food from the fire - Telegraph.co.uk

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